Monday, November 27, 2017

Fernandina, Fla.


This place has been hit by two hurricanes.  Talked to a liveaboard next to us and he had 14 lines tied to his boat during both storms.  A spider web, he called it. 

Apparently, most damage was done by Matthew and Irma put on the finishing touches.  However, various levels of government have been dickering about the funding so that nothing has been repaired. 

Overlapping this is a similar story to Southport.  The marina is silting in and there are 12 agencies "deciding" how to handle it.  It's like no one cares about boaters and boating.  Just about where to put the mud so no one is pissed off. 

As of now, Fernandina's entire breakwater/face dock is kaput.  We are at one of only five transient slips and there are 12 mooring balls.  



Here are some dead boats piled up on the side on the way in....




Fernandina's famous factory skyline...




Ending on an up-note, Barry took another one of his famous sunset shots.  This is at Isle of Hope in Savannah, Ga.





That's all folks....







Wednesday, November 22, 2017

Beaufort, SC, sights

Meet Mr. Kitty...


Mr.Kitty is very secure in his identity as a dog.  He joined our dock yesterday and, according to his owners, he is a rescue dog who chose his own name.  

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 Meet Super-boat...




Is it a boat or is it a house?  Apparently, it's both and it seems to be living around Beaufort, because we see it going and coming several times a day.  Running on a solar panel roof, the houseboat has a couple of grills on the topside and I think chickens in a little cage in the back.
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Change of Plans...

We were going to move on today, but the fog was very thick and by the time it cleared, we would have had to drive at 10 knots to make the next location before dark.  $$$$


Instead, we're staying here and will be going to a Thanksgiving dinner tomorrow sponsored by a local church for boaters.  Beats the original plan of going through Hell Gate, one of the rotteness of all nautical rottenesses along the ICW.  At low tide, it's one foot and at high tide, seven feet.


Upcoming events...
The Little Mud River





I'm told that Little Mud includes 4/5ths of all the mud in Georgia.  At low tide it is one foot and at high tide, 7 feet.  Engineers have looked into the situation and it seems the only fix is to build a 10 foot berm on the sides so the mud can't slide back in.  

After that, Brunswick, Ga., and then Florida where the tides are not as vicious, the weather is warmer and the children are above average. 


That's all folks....





Sunday, November 19, 2017

Highs and lows of the last 200 miles

Lemme' get right to the lows...



White knuckle time.  The is the chart screen which shows the depth under the bottom of our boat in the upper left corner.  This means that there was about 3 inches under our boat as we passed by.  At one point, the chart read minus one foot which meant either our sensor was off or we were dredging the ICW for the state of South Carolina.  

This is what it looked like as we went by:




Tides average 7 to 10 feet in these here parts.  These photos were taken as we went by at the time of the chart reading.  In the end, all you can do is go down the middle and have an intense session of mind over matter.
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Speaking of tides, here are some results...




This is a 48-foot sport fish power boat that sank recently in Bull Creek, South Carolina, where we anchored one night.  The Coast Guard told me that whatever happens to this wreck is now up to EPA.  

Dealing with wrecks in waterways is complicated.  They mostly get left there until they fall apart because there is no landfill for boats.  They become part of the scenery while EPA writes another report.

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The highs: a night in Bull Creek...




This is supposed to be what cruising is like.  A quiet gunk hole with absolutely no civilization.  A night at anchor in total darkness.  Disorienting when there are no lights to relate to.  Reminded me a little of crossing the Bahama Bank where there are also no lights from buoys, cars, restaurants, anything.  Does a human exist where there is no light?
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Waterway real estate...





Probably a fire.

Not easy to build.

Cheaper seats.  

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A sight to remind us we do exist...


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Postscripts:

The bar at Myrtle Beach Yacht Club.


Late report:  Remember the farm-sitting we did?  Well, unfortunately a stray dog got into the turkeys and killed 76 of them.  This is what farmers have to put up with.  All that work raising the chickens, cows, corn, beans, whatever, can be wiped out by Mother Nature.  And to think that I'm complaining about the tides.  -- Vicki


That's all folks.



















Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Back on the waterway again...

After two weeks, we are leaving Southport at 11 am today.  Why 11 am and not some ungodly boater hour like 6 am?  Because. The Shallotte Inlet at mile marker 329 has to be passed at high tide, which is 2 pm.  Hereabouts, cruising is built around the tides, or you pay.  And we ain't making no more payments.

A big kudo to Zimmerman's Yacht Yard in Southport, NC.  Thanking the gods that we had all our troubles here, because this is one of the, if not THE, premier boat repair place on the ICW.  Balboita is ready for bear.

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What's its like to be boatless and dogless in anywhere?

Well, we had it pretty good.  Nice digs at Lois Jane's Riverside Inn, where Innkeeper Kelly heroically moved us from room to room to fit us into a mostly-full B&B.  Yay Kelly.


Kelly and Sebastian at Riverside Inn

We had a beautifully strange view from one of our rooms.


This is at the intersection of the Cape Fear River and the ICW...where cargo ships, freighters and barges mix it up with southbound snowbirds.  While we were here, one biggie went aground for all the world to see and even made it on the front page of the local paper and television.  Click on link and be amazed to see what current can do:

http://www.newsobserver.com/news/local/article183407551.html

Being dogless in Anywhere was probably hardest.  You reach over to pet the hairy little guy who's supposed to be cuddled beside you and there is....air.  And to beat all, everybody wanted to know how the dogs were doing.  The humans didn't count.

Can't complain about meals.  We had a classic B&B breakfast every morning: cheese omlet, sausage, bacon, fruit, orange juice, pancakes, banana muffins, bisquits with gravy....Not all at once, but a surprise each day.  

Then, there is the ever-favorite: lunch at waterfront places.  The pick of this day was The Yacht Basin.


Couple in different temperature zones


I scream


Halloween not over.  Or ready for next year





Gratuitous sunset photo op...



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The seminar.

Southport Marina has this incredible service.  It's a nightly seminar to educate boaters about ICW trouble spots from here to the Georgia border.  Whew.  If you are new to the topic, it seems there are more trouble spots than not.  Shallow here, shoaling there, marker missing, etc. etc.  There was a newbie in attendance and I could see the sweat pouring off of him, punctuated by a "oh my god" every now and then.

Money has been a problem for dredging the ICW.  The lack of it. NC has none.  Georgia just got some, but can't spend it because of some environmental issue which obviously doesn't include humans and their boats.  So, I get the feeling the ICW is in trouble and people are going to be less and less inclined to keep going aground to get to Florida or the Bahamas.  

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Destination today: Myrtle Beach Yacht Club.

This "yacht club" at MM 346 only costs $1.25 a foot with 25 cents off for Boat US members.  And take a look at what you get:  http://myrtlebeachyachtclub.com/


So, Vicki suited up.


Boots on the ground for 40 degrees


Bye bye to little pink tow boat at marina

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That's all folks

















Wednesday, November 8, 2017

Boatless in Southport

Balboita is still in the hospital...



For those of you dying to know...the best-case scenario for splash-down is Friday.  Nice marine insurance inspector showed up yesterday -- in record time -- wrote a report, and the work is underway.  


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The accidental locals...

That's us.  Temporary Southport residents living in a B&B for the last week and counting.  I usually avoid B&Bs because they're full of chotskies (tchotchkes) that I'm afraid to turn around in the rooms.  

Chotskies

However, we have a little apartment with a kitchenette and no chotskies.  Just necessities like coffee maker and microwave.  

B&Bs are like funeral homes.  In both cases, the buildings don't depend on people to exist and live on even after the guests have left.  And then..... there are the flowers.  Everywhere.  (This is what happens to your thinking if you watch "Six Feet Under," a TV comedy series about running a funeral home.)

Living at a B&B makes you feel like a kid with a nice family taking care of you.  Big breakfast ready for you at 8:30, drop into the kitchen to get some orange juice or cream for coffee.  


Here are some pix of Riverside Inn.





As you can see, no people.

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Dinner is across the street.....

At Oliver's, which looks like this from the outside.





And like this on the inside.



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Guess who's coming to breakfast...

You'd think the guests would give you something to talk about behind their backs.  Not at all. They're all very normal.  So disappointing.  

At wine and cheese time last night, we got into a discussion with a couple from Bay Ridge in Annapolis, who love old sports cars.  Here is their Jaguar which they drove here to Riverside.




This got me thinking about my 1967 Volvo P1800 that I drove when I first got married.  



Soooooo, something finally got on my bucket list.  I wouldn't mind driving around Annapolis in this.  Probably would cost me about $25,000.  (Balboita, watch out)

Old sports cars are another world.  I learned there are three kinds:  barn cars, drivable cars and precious somethings that get carted around to shows. 

Barn cars look like this and can be gotten for $3,000 to $8,000, and may never be drivable

(I exaggerate, of course)

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Channeling classic 1964 Coast Guard fashion...

A little over 34 miles off the coast of Southport is a kind of B&B called Frying Pan Tower.  There you can rent rooms and get an experience to talk about during happy hour.  The tower originally served as a light house on the Frying Pan Shoals off the coast.  

All eight rooms are water view and have such amenities as lights and running water.  Cost is $598 for two nights, three days, giving you enough time to kill off any of your fellow guests.  (Note: you have to arrange for transportation by boat or helicopter.)  


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 For those who have been to Southport...


Some oldies....

Riverside Motel (where did the water go?)



Das beach



Das waterfront

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 That's all folks...








Still, the notion of U-boat crews routinely landing and moving undetected among the civilian population seems highly implausible at this point.
The stories, however, do point to the emotions felt by many Americans during the first six months of World War II, during what author James T. Cheatham called “the Atlantic Turkey Shoot.”
From January to July 1942, some 347 civilian vessels were sunk or severely damaged by German submarine attacks off the U.S. Atlantic Coast. The threat was severe, since oil pipelines generally did not extend east of the Mississippi before the war — meaning that most of the Eastern Seaboard’s supply of gasoline and petroleum products was shipped by vulnerable oil tankers.
The Germans’ offensive was made easier because U.S. officials were slow to enforce blackouts along the East Coast. (U-boats were reputed to use the brightly lit Lumina pavilion at Wrightsville Beach as a
For a brief period, the U-boats seemed invincible. No wonder people thought the German crew members could come ashore and wander around with impunity — even take in a movie.
U-boat losses fell sharply after July 1942, when blackouts were finally imposed and “dim-outs” were ordered for cars and small boats in coastal areas. In July 1942, U.S. 74 and 76 were temporarily closed near the coast, out of concern that submarines were “assisted by lights from motor vehicles,” according to the Associated Press. Such restrictions were not relaxed until well into 1943.